Made-from-scratch brown sugar is not a brand new thought by any stretch, however previously, it wasn’t one thing I ever cared about. Partially, I used to be skeptical {that a} “selfmade” mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses might someway style any higher than “actual” brown sugar…a mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses.
My logic was that, except you bothered to begin with a jar of significantly scrumptious small-batch molasses, there have been no actual positive aspects available—a logic that fell aside the second a pal of mine referred to as in a panic as a result of she was out of brown sugar for her favourite dessert, with friends all however on her doorstep. Guiding her by means of the method of constructing the swap was straightforward, she did not must drop all the pieces to drive to the shop, her bourbon pecan layer cake turned out lovely, and I realized the actual worth of selfmade brown sugar: expedience.
In case you ever run out of brown sugar, falling again on a jar of molasses to whip up an emergency batch is a superb plan B—as long as you go about it the proper manner. At the start, which means utilizing true molasses and never blackstrap, which ought to by no means be utilized in any recipe except it is referred to as for by title (full report on that matter right here). The second half of the equation is definitely understanding the equation. See, store-bought brown sugar is about 10% molasses by weight, however that does not imply you possibly can simply multiply a given weight of white sugar by 0.1 to find out how a lot molasses is required. At first blush, that calculation makes good sense (and that is the method you will see bandied about most frequently on-line), but it surely winds up making the brown sugar too mild. Even lighter than mild brown sugar, which is what most recipes take into consideration.*
Except a recipe calls particularly for “darkish brown sugar,” it is secure to imagine mild brown sugar is what the writer meant. Making darkish brown sugar is about including not simply extra molasses but in addition darker molasses, and, for the aim of this submit, that is a bit extra sophisticated a subject than I am ready to unpack.
For a cup of white sugar (seven ounces), 10% is about one tablespoon (3/4 ounce), which is fairly handy for folk measuring by quantity. However as soon as the white sugar and molasses are combined collectively, you have acquired 7 3/4 ounces whole, making that molasses simply 9% of the overall weight. Now, it’s possible you’ll be considering, “Shut sufficient,” however within the realm of baking, that may be a harmful factor. And not using a full 10% molasses content material, selfmade variations will behave extra like white sugar than brown, which might have a huge impact on cookies specifically, altering how they unfold, rise, and brown. You possibly can try a full breakdown of these variations right here.
With the intention to precisely mix your individual mild brown sugar at house, it is essential to do not forget that for nonetheless a lot molasses you add, that a lot white sugar wants to return out. Going again to my earlier instance, seven ounces of sugar must be decreased to six 1/4 ounces, in order that 3/4 ounce molasses will likely be 10% of the overall weight. Spelling it out sounds sophisticated, however do not overthink it. All it is advisable bear in mind is that 6 1/4 ounces of white sugar plus 3/4 ounce molasses equals seven ounces of brown sugar.
You may make up an enormous batch that can hold for a few month, however when you have a scale, you possibly can calculate precisely how a lot white sugar and molasses you will want to interchange any given amount of brown sugar. Simply multiply the load of the brown sugar by 10% to learn how a lot molasses you will want, then subtract that quantity from the entire to find out the load of the white sugar you will want. In case you occur to have any frivolously toasted sugar available, maybe left over from blind-baking a pie, it may be used like white sugar so as to add some caramel notes that can give selfmade brown sugar a extra nuanced sweetness.
The precise coloration of the outcomes will rely in your particular model of molasses and whether or not or not the sugar is toasted, however you possibly can usually count on it to have a considerably redder undertone than conventional brown sugar (possible as a result of deeper brown shades discovered in additional concentrated types of molasses). Ounce for ounce, selfmade brown sugar is extra voluminous than what you discover on the retailer, just because it hasn’t had an opportunity to compact over time. However, as long as it is measured precisely, in each preparation and use, it is going to behave in a lot the identical manner.
On the left, we’ve samples from a batch of my favourite One-Bowl Oatmeal Cookies made with industrial brown sugar, and, on the proper, cookies made with DIY brown sugar. Whereas they unfold somewhat extra irregularly total, the latter cookies nonetheless averaged about three inches throughout. If I abruptly found I used to be 86’d on brown sugar, I might gladly take that discrepancy over the choice of getting no cookies in any respect.
I will possible at all times want the comfort of business brown sugar, which is each inexpensive, dependable, and attractive. However when push involves shove, realizing the way to make a comparable brown sugar from scratch is a trick all bakers ought to sustain their sleeves.